Free Crochet Patterns for a Kangaroo
Yarn Yarn and Colors are required. Cotton only. 125m per 50g
MC: 50g clay (005) for the body, head, ears, arms, legs, tail, and baby kangaroo.
CC1: 20g Cream (002) approx. for Head, Ears, Pouch, and Embroidered Details
CC2: approximately 5g of Brunet (027) for Noses, Mouth, and Eyes.
Cotton yarn is ideal for Ami because it provides good stitch definition and creates a firm structure, allowing body parts to retain their shape. Must Have is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g can be substituted.
Hook\s3mm
Other Materials
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins, and scissors are all required.
Tension: 24 stitches x 27 rows = 10cm over dc with a 3mm hook.
Although tension is not critical for this project, the stitches should be tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through.
From the tip of the ears to the base, the size is approximately 18 cm (7 in).
Notes on the Pattern
This pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains, unless otherwise specified.
To keep track of the first stitch of each round, use a stitch marker or waste yarn.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring, begin each piece with a chain of two and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
The Kangaroos are made up of several separate pieces that are sewn together. Finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leaving a long tail for sewing, unless otherwise specified. Any loose tails at the end can be woven in easily.
Abbreviations
This pattern is written in UK crochet terms, which are NOT the same as US crochet terms; please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid distorting your character's shape!
In this pattern, the abbreviation "dc" refers to UK double crochet. In US terms, the equivalent stitch is single crochet; if you're used to US patterns, you'll need to work single crochet wherever this pattern says "dc." Working in US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) causes the finished item to be elongated and the stuffing to show through.
UK htr - half treble is also used in this pattern. In the United States, the equivalent stitch is hdc - half double.
Growing and shrinking
In this pattern, you can use either standard increases and decreases or invisible ones for a much neater finish. FLO stands for front loop only.
In the pattern, decrease - "dc2tog."
Insert hook into the FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, pull through both front loops, draw through two loops on hook.
In the pattern, increase by "2 dc in next st."
Work 1 dc in the FLO of the next st and 1 dc in both loops of the same st to make an invisible increase.
Head of a Kangaroo
Worked from the front of the head to the back. As you go, stuff happens. The increases in Rnds 9 and 11 create the upward slope on the top of the Head where the eyes will sit - take note of the shape so you know which is the top of the Head when it comes time to attach the Body later.
Rnd 1: 6 dc with CC1 and working into a magic ring Rnd 6 stitches 2: 2 dc in each st all the way around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 double crochet, 2 double crochet in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc all around.
Switch to MC.
Rounds 7-8: Dc all around.
Rnd 9: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc 21 sts
Rnd ten: Dc all around.
Rnd 11: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc Rnd 12: Dc around 24 stitches
Rnd 13: 6 times [3 dc, 2 dc in next st]. 30 sts
[4 dc, 2 dc in next st] Rnd 14 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 15: 6 times [5 dc, 2 dc in next st]. Rnd 16: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times 42 stitches Rnds 17-18: Dc around 48 stitches
Rnd 19: 22 dc, twice [1 dc2tog, 3 dc], 1 dc2tog, 14 dc Rnd 20: 21 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc 45 sts Rnd 21: Dc around 42 stitches
Rnd 22: 6 times [5 dc, 1 dc2tog]. Rnd 23: 6 times [4 dc, 1 dc2tog]. Rnd 24: Dc around 30 stitches
Rnd 25: 6 times [3 dc, 1 dc2tog]. Rnd 26: Dc around 24 stitches
[2 dc, 1 dc2tog] Rnd 27 6 times. Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times 18 stitches 12 stitches Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog 6 sts
Close the loop. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 stitches and pull to close the hole. Weave in the end.
Body worked from the ground up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: 6 dc with MC and working into a magic ring. Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times 30 stitches Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times Rnd 7: Dc around 36 stitches.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Rnds 9-15: Dc around 42 stitches.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 6 times [4 dc, 1 dc2tog]. 30 sts
Round 21: Dc all around.
Rnd 22: 6 times [3 dc, 1 dc2tog]. 24 sts
Rnd 23: Double crochet all around.
Rnd 24: 6 times [2 dc, 1 dc2tog]. 18 sts
Rnds 25-28: Dc in a circle.
Close the loop. Once you've completed all of the parts, leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head.
Make two ears.
Worked from the top of the ear down. Do not stuff yourself.
Rnd 1: 6 dc with MC and working into a magic ring Rnd 2: Dc around 6 stitches
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st all the way around. Rnds 12 stitches 4-5: Dc all around.
Rnd 6: [1 double crochet, 2 double crochet in next st] 6 times. Rnds 18 sts 7-8: Dc all around.
Rnd 9: 6 times [1 dc, 1 dc2tog]. 12 sts
Rnd ten: Dc all around.
Rnd 11: 3 times [2 dc, 1 dc2tog]. Rnd 12: Dc around 9 stitches.
Close the loop. Once you've completed all of the parts, leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 1 dc, 2 htr, 1 dc, 1 ch, rotating as you go, then 1 dc, 2 htr, 1 dc, sl st into first dc to join. 8 sts
Close the loop. Once you've completed all of the parts, leave a long yarn tail to sew the Inner Ears to the Ears.
Make two arms.
Worked up from the paw end of the arm to the top of the arm. As you go, stuff happens.
Rnd 1: 6 dc in a magic ring with the MC. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st all the way around. 12 sts
Rnds 3–6: Dc all around.
Rnd 7: 3 times [2 dc, 1 dc2tog]. 9 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc in a circle.
Rnd 12: 3 times [1 dc, 1 dc2tog]. 6 sts
Rounds 13-14: Dc all around.
Close the loop. Once you've completed all of the parts, leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body.
Thighs- as you go, make 2 Stuff.
Rnd 1: 6 dc with MC and working into a magic ring Rnd 6 stitches 2: 2 dc in each st all the way around. Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 12 stitches 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 6 times [2 dc, 2 dc in next st]. 24 sts
5th round: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Rnds 30 sts 6-7: Dc all around.
8th round: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Close the loop. Once you've completed all of the parts, leave a long yarn tail to sew the Thighs to the Body.
Feet- make 2 Stuff lightly up to and including Rnd 7, do not stuff the remaining rounds.
Rnd 1: 6 dc with MC and working into a magic ring 6 sts
Rnd 2: 3 times [1 dc, 2 dc in next st]. Rnds 9 sts 3-5: Dc all around.
6th round: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc Rnd 7: Dc all around.
8th round: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc Rnd 9: Dc all around.
10th round: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc Rnds 6 sts 11–12: Dc all around.
Close the loop. Once you've completed all of the parts, leave a long yarn tail to sew the Feet to the underside of the Thighs.
Make two eyes.
Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring with CC2, 4 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 4 sts
Close the loop. Once you've completed all of the parts, leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head.
Nose
Do not stuff yourself.
Rnd 1: 6 dc with CC2 and working into a magic ring 6 sts
Round 2: Dc all around.
Tail
Worked from the tail's tip up. The curve in the tail is formed by the increases and decreases in Rnds 5, 7, and 15. As you go, stuff happens.
Rnd 1: 6 dc. 6 sts with MC and working into a magic ring 2: 2 dc in the next stitch, 5 dc Rnd 7 sts 1 dc, 2 dc in the next st, 5 dc Rnd 8 stitches 4: 2 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch, 5 dc Rnd 9 stitches 5: 2 dc in the next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc Rnd 9 stitches 6: 3 dc, twice [2 dc in next st], 4 dc 11 sts
Rnd 7: 4 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog 11 sts
8th round: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc 12 sts
9th round: Dc all around.
Rnd 10: [1 double crochet, 2 double crochet in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
11-12: Dc all around.
Rnd 13: 6 times [2 dc, 2 dc in next st]. 24 sts
14th round: Dc all around.
7 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc 24 sts
Round 16: Dc all around.
Rnd 17: [3 double crochet, 2 double crochet in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Close the loop. Once you've completed all of the parts, leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body.
Pouch & Chest
The chest and pouch are made entirely of turned rows. Worked down from the top of the chest. Row 22 is worked only in the back loops, allowing the bottom of the piece to fold upwards, forming the front of the Pouch. The single chain at the beginning of each Row is not counted as a stitch. When working in rows, use regular increases and decreases rather than invisible ones.
Chain 5 with CC1.
Row 1: 4 dc in the second ch from the hook. 4 stitches, turn
Row 2: 1 ch, dc all the way across. Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st 6 stitches, turn
1 ch, dc across Row 4 Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in the next st. 8 stitches, turn
1 ch, dc across Row 6 Row 7: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, turn. 10 stitches, turn
Row 8: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next stitch, 8 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch 12 stitches, turn
Row 9: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next stitch, 10 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch 14 stitches, turn
1 ch, dc across rows 10-14 Row 15: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, turn. 12 stitches, turn
1 ch, dc across Row 16 Row 17: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, turn. 10 stitches, turn
1 ch, dc across Row 18 Row 19: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, turn. 8 stitches, turn
1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 ch 6 stitches, turn
1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 ch 4 stitches, turn
Row 22: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 6 stitches, turn
Row 23: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next stitch, 4 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch 8 stitches, turn
Row 24: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next stitch, 6 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch 10 stitches, turn
Row 25: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, 2 dc in next s 12 stitches, turn
Row 26: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next stitch, 10 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch 14 stitches, turn
Row 27: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next stitch, 12 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch 16 stitches, turn
Row 28: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next stitch, 14 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch 18 stitches, turn
Row 29: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next stitch, 16 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch 20 stitches, turn
Row 30: 1 ch, 2 dc in the next stitch, 18 dc, 2 dc in the next stitch 22 stitches, turn
Rows 31-32: 1 chain, 1 dc across. Turn.
1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 18 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 ch 20 sts
Close the loop. Once you've completed all of the parts, leave a long yarn tail to sew the Chest and Pouch to the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to ensure you're happy with the positioning, then stitch the pieces together with the long yarn tails or a length of yarn and a yarn needle.
Check that the point where you changed colours at the end of Rnd 6 is sitting under the chin to ensure the head is the right way up. Sew the Body to the underside of the Head, with the front of the neck roughly aligned with Head Rnd 17.
Sew the Eyes in place on the upper side of the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the pattern, with a 3 stitch gap between the Eyes.
Pinch together the open end of one ear, fold the bottom of the ear, and secure with a few stitches. Sew the Inner Ear to the head. Repeat for the second Ear, then sew them onto the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 16 and with a 5 stitch gap between the two Ears.
Sew the Nose to the top of the Head's muzzle end.
The chest and pouch were created as a single piece. By working only in the back loops of Row 22 of this piece, you created a "hinge," allowing the front of the Pouch to fold up over the bottom of the Chest part. This "hinge" folds better one way than the other - fold it the "easy" way.
Pin the Chest section of the piece to the front of the Body, ensuring that it is symmetrically aligned with the Head. The first row should be snug against where the front of the Body meets the Head.
Sew a single stitch highlight on each eye with CC1 and embroider three claws on each arm and foot with CC2.
Embroider the Big Kangaroo's mouth with CC2.